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LAKE AND GLEN SCENEUY 



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EMBKACINO NOriCi:S OF LAKKS SENKCA, CA 
YUGA, KEUKA AN1> CANANDAIGUA, 

With Particular Descriptions of tho Famous 




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And Directions for their full Exploration ; 



TOGETHER WITH BRIEF OBSERVATIONS ON THE ITHACA, TAUOHANNOCK 
AND ENFIELD GLENS. 



BY M. ELLS, 

LESSEE. AND MANAGER OF HAVANA GLEI 



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ELMIRA, N. Y. J 

ADVERTISER ASSOCIATION BOOK AND JOB PRINTING HOUSE, LAKE ST. 

1873. 



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Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1873, by M. ELLS, in the 
Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 






PREFACE. 



This little work has been written for the purpose of giving an 
outline sketch of the Lake and Glen scenery of Central New 
York, in a cheap and convenient form ; and while no pretensions 
to elegance in style are made by the Author, he trusts that it will 
prove acceptable as the pioneer of a larger and more complete 
volume, which he intends to publish annually hereafter, with illus- 
trations of the scenery described. The observations on the ex- 
ploration of the Watkins and Havana Glens have been written 
with care, and it is hoped will be found serviceable and interesting 
to those for whom they are intended. 

M. E. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Lakes and. Glens have in all ages of the world, and among un- 
civilized as well as civilized men, possessed peculiar and inde- 
finable charms, unknown to other classes of natural scener>' ; 
and it is a remarkable fact that they are almost invariably found 
in near proximity to each other. It is true that in Lake and Glen 
regions of country — like that of Central New York — Lakes are 
sometimes found without any adjacent Glens ; but the reverse of 
this is of very rare occurrence, and the presence of a Glen, suf- 
ficiently extensive to become noted, seems to necessarily involve 
the existence of a Lake in its vicinity. 

The term " Lake," as applied to those of Central New York, 
surrounded as they are with scenic attractions of a high order, 
has become the synonym of beauty and enchantment, and that 
of "Glen," suggestive of romantic weirdness, wildncss, grandeur 
and sublimity, and all the manifold delights and emotions re- 
sulting from a pleasing combination of startling and indescrib- 
able natural wonders. 

A Lake may be described, by one gifted in the use of language, so 
as to give some approximate idea of it; but a Glen, like those 
that gem the head waters of Lakes Seneca and Cayuga, beggar 
all description, and set the most cultivated and accomplished vo- 
cal and pen powers at defiance. Even poetry fails to picture the 
reality so as to have it comprehensible to the most fervid imagi- 
nation ; and the boldest of tlie muses shrinks from attempting tlie 
task. No successful descriptive poem has ever been written on 
any of these Glens, and the most that can be accom])lishcd in 
either poetry or prose, is to awaken an interest in them, and a 
desire for their visitation. The camera and tlie pencil have suc- 
ceeded in faithfully reproducing many of their fmcst scenes ; br.t 
there is nothing like the human eye to place them and their endless 
beauties in full and harmonious communion with the human soul. 



§fi1 $itke^. 



The principal Lakes of Central New York, whose crystal 
waters and beautifully diversified shores have of late years be- 
come favorite summer resorts, are Seneca, Cayuga, Keuka and 
Canandaigua, the two former being the most popular, because of 
their close proximity to th^ remarkable Glens at Watkins, Havana 
and Ithaca, in the near vicinity of these three villages. Watkins, 
with its famous Glen, is located at the southern extremity, or head, 
of Seneca Lake ; Havana, with its but little less famous and 
equally wild and wonderful Glen, three and a half miles south of 
the head of the Lake ; and Ithaca, with its wealth and variety of 
Glen scenery, at and around the head of Cayuga Lake. These 
Glens which have been opened and made accessible, one after 
another, within a short term of years past — commencing with 
the Watkins Glen in 1863 — by the working of pathways and the 
construction of numerous staircases, bridges, etc., are immensely 
popular with the scenery-seeking public, and are thronged, with 
each returning summer, by thousands and tens of thousands of 
people from all parts of the country, and by many from foreign 
lands. In attracting so large a number of visitors they have, as 
a hatural consequence, largely increased the summer travel over 
the Lakes at whose heads they are delightfully located, and 
brought all of these beautiful sheets of water into great favor and 
prominence, compared with their limited notoriety of ten years 
ago ; the effect of which has been that facilities for travel and 
comfortable sojourn at their thriving " head " and " foot " villages, 
and at interesting points along their sylvan shores, have been 
greatly improved. The steamboats and hotels, throughout all 
this Lake and Glen section, will this year compare favorably with 
those of any other scenic-resort region of the State 



6 Lake and Glen Scenery 

SENECA LAKE, 

Which is claimed and conceded to be one of the most beautiful 
and interesting sheets of water in the world, is nearly forty miles 
long, from two to four miles in width, of great depth, and unrival- 
led in purity and clearness by any of its sister Lakes in Central 
New York. Its course is nearly north and south, and its rising 
slopes, on either side, are a living panoramic view of alternate 
and highly cultivated fields, orchards and vineyards, forests and 
village scenes, along its whole length ; which in summer, and es- 
pecially when the golden hues of harvest-time are woven into the 
magnificent ground-work of changing green, presents a double 
picture of unequalled and matchless beauty. This remarkable 
Lake has been sounded to the depth of nearly i,ooo feet. It is a 
vast spring, discharging through its outlet in the course of a year 
nearly ten times the amount of water received through its inlet, 
Catharine Creek, and Keuka, which flows into it, and from its 
various glen-stream tributaries. It rarely freezes in winter, and 
its steamboats ply between Watkins and (icneva, located at its 
northern extremity, the year around. It is subject to mysterious 
but harmless tides of unequal rise and duration, which no one 
has yet been able to account for ; and, in mid-summer, its waters 
are of almost icy coldness, except around its shallows, which are 
few, as at most points it descends abruptly hundreds of feet with- 
in a very short distance of its rock-bound shores. Its localities 
of interest, aside from Glens, on the east side, are Hector Falls, 
a fine succession of cascades, and a beautiful point for pleasure 
parties, three miles north of Watkins ; North Hector point, where 
annual camp-meetings arc held, usually in June, and where there 
is a good hotel well patronized in the summer months ; and the 
Willard Asylum, at Ovid, for the insane poor of the State. Ge- 
neva, at the foot of the Lake, is an attractive place in summer and 
the scat of Hobart College and its Medical and Surgical Mu- 
seum. The view of the Lake and its eastern shores from College 
Hill, is one of the finest that can well be imagined, and is worth 
going miles to see. On the west side of the Lake, near both 
Dresden and Watkins, there are extensive vineyards and wine cel- 
lars, where as fine still wines — sweet and dry Catawba — are manu- 
factured, as at Hanimondsport or any locality on Lake Keuka ; 



of Central New York. y 

and the two unopened twin Glens, with their fine cascades, at 
Roclc Stream and Big Stream, some six or eight miles below 
Watkins, and the splendid views from the highlands in their 
vicinity, are features well worthy of attention on the part of those 
who have abundant leisure ; while the view from the heights of 
Glenwood Cemetery, or Table Mountain as it was formerly called, 
north of the Watkins Glen, is uncjucstionably the grandest, most 
beautiful and sublime to be found on this portion of the Ameri- 
can continent. The steamboats of Seneca, designed for the pleas- 
ure and business travel of the ensuing summer — the Schuyler 
and the Onondaga — have been put in complete and elegant or- 
der, and a prosperous season is anticipated, as many of the south- 
ern and eastern people, bound for Niagara and beyond, go by 
way of Elmira to Watkins, over the Northern Central route, visit 
the Watkins and Havana Glens, pass over Seneca Lake and take 
the New York Central Railway at Geneva. This route has be- 
come so popular that a tourist who misses Seneca Lake both ways, 
in making his annual pilgrimage to worship at the shrines of na- 
ture in Western and Central New York, is regarded as having 
lost one of the most delicious scenic treats of his summer jaunt 
among the inland Lakes of the enchanted region which he left 
his city home to explore and enjoy. 

CAYUGA LAKE 

Is both longer and wider than Seneca by nearly one-fourth, and 
lies east of it on an average of fifteen to eighteen miles. It is not 
near as deep and is quite different in many of its characteristics, 
and yet resembles Seneca remarkably in others. It is a beauti- 
ful body of water and greatly admired by the many thousands of 
visitors to the Glens around Ithaca, and to the celebrated Cornell 
University in that highly prosperous and inviting village. The 
views of Cayuga Lake from the University Buildings and 
the lofty hills surrounding Ithaca, are very picturesque and not 
easily forgotten. The location of the village, as connected with 
the Lake, is very much like that of Watkins as connected with 
Seneca Lake, and one locality forcibly reminds the visitor of the 
other — the most observable difference being that Ithaca is located 
a short distance further south of the lake shore ; but at her pres- 



8 Ijikc and Glen Scenery 

cnt rate of achancement this dissimilarity is soon to pass away. — 
She is rapidly becoming a place of much importance — a railway 
and manufacturing, as well as business centre — and will, in a few 
years, put on the dignity of a young and flourishing city, outstrip- 
ping, in this respect, her Seneca Lake Glen-rival, Watkins, whose 
wealthy citizens, though justly proud of her magnificent attractions, 
are making but slow, though sure, progress in the way of manu- 
facturing enterprises. The two points of greatest interest reached 
by steamboat in going down the Lake from Ithaca are the grand 
old gorge and Falls of Taughannock, and the wild and wierd 
hunting grounds known as the Montezuma Marshes, at the foot of 
the Lake, near Cayuga. The remarkable gorge and falls here al- 
luded to will be treated of more at length hereafter. 

KEUKA LAKE, 

Some fifteen to twenty miles west of Seneca, is a singular and 
in some respects a wonderful one among the inland lakes of the 
State. It is about half the size of Seneca, surrounded in good part 
by high hills, lies in a north-easterly and south-westerly direction, 
is divided at its northerly end by a high promontory, over 700 
feet above the water, as are also the shores of the main body at 
their highest points, which is about as high as those of Lake Sen- 
eca. This promontory which is known as Bluff Point, divides the 
lake through nearly one-half its length, and is a very curious phe- 
nomenon, to be accounted for only by some strange convulsion or 
unknown process of nature — like the singular and unusual depth 
of Seneca — in some distant geological era of the past. The waters 
of this lake are about 720 feet above the level of the ocean and 270 
to 300 above those of the Seneca and Cayuga, the former of which 
at the northern extremity of Kcuka, are but about seven miles dis- 
tant. The pleasant and growing village of Penn Yan lies at the 
foot of its east branch, and Branchport at the foot of the west one, 
while Hammondsport, famous almost the world over for its Native- 
American Wines, including the choicest champagnes, is located 
at the head of the lake, 17 miles from Branchport and 22 from 
Penn Yan. Keuka is the lake of the vine — no less than 7,000 
acres of land along its steep shores being devoted to the culture of 
the grape, and thus far with very encouraging success. Its " Pleas- 



of Central New York. , g 

ant Valley" and "Urbana and Crooked Lake" Wine Companies 
have extensive cellars which are objects of fascinating interest to 
the average tourist, and serve as a great inducement to take a 
trip over the lake from Penn Yan, which is located on the North- 
ern Central. The scenic beauties of Keuka are superior to Cayu- 
ga (Glen scenery aside), and, although differing from, almost ri- 
val those of Seneca. It has good steamboat accommodations, a 
well conducted summer hotel on the east shore, some five miles 
below, or north of Hammondsport, known as the "Grove Spring 
House," Col. Moore, proprietor ; and a day's recreation on the 
lake and among its surroundings, is always remembered with 
pleasure. 

CANANDAIGUA LAKE, 

At the north end of which the wealthy and sedate village of that 
name is located, also comes in for its share of summer visitors. — 
It likewise has its steamboat facilities, its pleasure grounds and a 
summer hotel — the " Seneca Point House," Mills & Bartholomew, 
proprietors — which is highly spoken of by those who have tested 
its summer hospitalities. At Naples, near the south end of the 
lake, some twenty-five miles from Canandaigua — for the lake is 
about the same size as Keuka — there is a wine company with 
flourishing vineyards, whose products are of excellent quality. 

As the reader may have inferred, all these lakes have their sail 
boats, skiffs and fishing grounds ; and Seneca and Cayuga their 
sail and steam yachts for pleasure and pleasure parties ; and in 
summer they are scenes of play and recreation for the people of 
our own and other States of the Union. They, and their hotels, are 
all within easy reach of Clifton, Crystal, Dryden, and Havana 
Mineral Springs, and various other curative institutions, among 
which may be named the Elmira Cure and the Hillside Cottage 
Sanitarium at Watkins. 



me §hnfi. 



WATKINS GLEN, 

Located at the head of Seneca Lake, only about half a mile 
south of the steamboat landing and the Northern Central Railway 
depot, is unquestionably — all things considered — the finest speci- 
men of Glen Scenery in the whole State. Its entrance is on the 
west side of the main street of the village, which runs north and 
south, and the general course of this wonder of nature is east and 
west. It is nearly three miles in length, from its opening section 
known as " Glen Alpha," to its closing one known as " Glen Ome- 
ga," and instead of being straight or nearly so, winds in every con- 
ceivable direction, being full of sinuosities, curves and angles. It 
is a great gorge or rift from one to three hundred feet deep, worn 
through the rock of the lofty hill, or mountain, which is nearly a 
thousand feet at its highest summit, above the level of the Lake 
and valley below, by the Avaters and frosts (say Prof. Agassiz and 
Prof. Hall), of many thousands of years ; abounding with deep 
gorges and grottos, numberless waterfalls, cascades, rapids and 
pools, towering cliffs, beetling crags, a great variety of crowning 
and overhanging forest trees with their intermingled foliage, and 
a world of mosses, ferns and flowers, rarely if ever found in any 
other locality in this latitude. 

It is divided, for the sake of convenience in description, and as 
expressive of its characteristics, into ten sections, known as, (i) 
Glen Alpha ; (2) Glen Obscura ; (3) Glen Cathedral ; (4) Glen of 
the Pools ; (5) Glen Difficulty ; (6) Glen Arcadia ; (7) Glen Facility ; 
(8) Glen Ploricon ; (9) Glen Elysium ; (10) Glen Omega. "And," 
(we quote from the Guide Book of 1871), "these names are all ap- 
propriate and significant. 'Alpha' is the beginning. 'Obscura' is but 
dimly seen. ' Cathedral' is one of the Great Architect's cathe- 
dral designs, and impresses the human mind with feelings of deep 
awe and reverence. The ' Glen of the Pools' presents an almost 
continual succession of pools. 'Glen Difficulty' was extremely 
difficult to open, and is by no means easy to ' get through' now. 
'Arcadia' is truly arcadian. ' Facility' is comparatively easy and 



of Central New York. ii 

facile. ' Horicon' is bounded by a wide horizon. ' Elysium' is, 
and is to be, one of the most beautiful and delightful of groves and 
pleasure grounds ; and ' Omega' is the end." 

We shall attempt no labored description of its romantic scenery, 
as no pen can do it justice. It must be seen before it can be ap- 
preciated, or in any degree understood ; and as Watkins now has 
an ample number of first-class public houses, prominent among 
which are the Lake View and Glen Park Hotels, the people of 
the cities need have no fears of lacking good and abundant ac- 
commodations. 

The Watkins Glen is twenty-two miles north of Elmira; on the 
direct northern route to Niagara ; and, in a scenic point of view, is 
a sort of half-way station, between the south and that grand 
cataract. 

Some of the most noted scenes in this Glen are known as En- 
trance Amphitheatre,Entrance Gorge, Entrance Cascade, Stillwater 
Gorge, Min-ne-ha-ha, The Labyrinth, Cavern Cascade, Canyon 
Gorge, Whirlwind Gorge, Mystic Gorge, Whirlpool Gorge, Sylvan 
Rapids, Central Cascade, Mammoth Gorge, Matchless Scene, 
Rainbow Falls, Shadow Gorge, The Narrow Pass, Pluto Falls, 
The Artist's Dream, Arcadia Falls, Elfin Gorge, Omega Falls, &c. 

Grace Greenwood, in an article published in the N. Y. Tribune 
in 1870, thus writes of this remarkable attraction : 

" I am not going to attempt a minute description of this really 
wonderful natural curiosity, suddenly become so famous. Scores 
of tourists are doing it. Porte Crayon has made it his own. And 
after all, it is indescribable, " unpaintable." The word '| Glen " gives 
but a faint idea of the gorge. It is a marvelous rift in the moun- 
tain, which it seems must have been made by some stupendous 
earthquake shock. The great rent, however effected, took place, 
according to Agassiz, thirty thousand years ago. The Glen, with 
its dashing, flashing, cascading stream, reminds me of several 
famous gorges and water-falls. It suggests Vaucluse in the pel- 
lucid clearness and sparkle of the water. But instead of the 
dreary, blasted heights above Petrarch's "Fountain," we have 
variegated, mossy, ferny rocks, the most lush and lovely foilage, 
and wild flowers in profusion. It faintly suggests the somber, 
magnificent Pass of the Finstermunz, in the Tyrol, but is infinitely 
brighter and more varied. That might have suggested to Dante 
a gorge in one of his dreariest hells. It suggests Trenton Falls, 
but is wilder and deeper. Most of all it suggests Bash-bish, in old 
Berkshire — is, indeed, very like it, but is yet more picturesque and 



12 Lake and Glen Scenery 

perilous. It is not properly a glen, but a prodigious succession, a 
full assortment and variety of glens. " You pays your money and 
you takes your choice." If one does not satisfy you, another 
must ; though you be the most rapacious devourer of the sublime 
and beautiful, " here's richness " for you. Through the boldest 
Yankee enterprise, these wild grandeurs and beauties of 300 cen- 
turies (vide Agassiz), barred and buried from the world, have 
been thrown open to our gaze, and it is no wonder that the tides 
of travel are setting toward it from all directions, that hundreds 
daily climb its dizzy stairways, pick their way along its narrow 
ledges, dodge under its little side cascades, watch for rainbows 
beside its waterfalls, gaze down into its profound mysterious pools, 
and speculate in its wonderful formation. We go leagues out of 
our way, in foreign travel, to see things far less worth seeing, like 
Tivoli, and Velino, Lodore, Glencoe, the Killarney cascades, the 
Vale of Avoca, the Dargle, and the Devil's Glen of Wicklow. The 
"Pools" are a great curiosity in themselves. They are smooth, 
round, regular excavations, gigantic bowls, and are always brim- 
ming with crystal clear water. So near to these pools does the 
narrow path lead in some places, that a single false step would 
inevitably cost you a cold plunge. I was told that the Rev. 
Thomas K. Beecher once, while showing 'up the Glen to a party 
of friends, took a sudden and involuntary shoot into the depths, 
while in the midst of a fine dissertation on the beauties of the 
spot. He had barely time to close his eloquent mouth as he went 
under, but as he rose to the surface, he finished his sentence — 
which was certainly very plucky and Beecheresque. 

The Glen is one of Nature's reservoirs of eternal coolness. In 
its shadowy recesses, beside its emerald waters, you forget even 
the fierce heats of July and August, hundreds of feet above you. 
But I am told it is seen in its utmost beauty in October, when the 
wild gorge with its wonderful variety of delicate foliage is brim- 
med with the most gorgeous colors, depth on depth of splendor. 

THE EXPLORATION. 

The first thing that should be understood in reference to the ex- 
ploration of Watkins Glen is, that ladies, whenever it is possible, 
ought to dress for the occasion. Plain and cheap dresses, only, 
should be worn, and long skirts and hoops should be dispensed 
with. In case the visitor is a transient one and no change can 
be made, let the dress be looped up on entering the first section 
of the Glen. If the foregoing advice is followed, much vexation 
and discomfort will be avoided. 

Visitors, in order to see the Glen most advantageously, and pass 
through it with the greatest safety and ease, should l^egin the ex- 



of Central New York. ij 

ploration at " Entrance Amphitheatre," commencing at the main 
street of the viUage, and not descend into its lower section, as 
some do, from the vicinity of the Mountain House. Having passed 
through " Enti"ance Amphitheatre," they should enter into what is 
known as " Entrance Gorge" — before ascending the first staircase 
— where a fine view maybe obtained of " Entrance Cascade" and 
the towering south-side cliffs, 250 feet in height. 

Returning, we ascend the " Entrance Staircase," follow the Plat- 
form Walk a lew rods, turn to the left, and reach " Sentry Bridge," 
from which we have a second and higher view of " Entrance Cas- 
cade," the pool into which it falls, some 60 feet, and " Entrance 
Gorge." Passing the Bridge we ascend another staircase, turn to 
the right, and the scene presented to us is called " Still Water 
Gorge." We are now fairly in 

SECTION I-GLEN ALPHA. 

Our pathway leads westward along the south side of the stream, 
some 1 5 feet or more above it, on a narrow ledge which is securely 
railed, and not at all difficult. After pursuing this path until we 
are some twenty rods from the entrance, we come in view of the 
" Minnehaha Falls," " Cross Staircase," " Long Staircase," (in the 
distance) and beyond it, " Cavern Cascade." Turning abruptly to 
the left, we ascend a short rock stairway to a higher level, where 
the best up-view of Glen Alpha is presented, and where we should 
linger a few minutes to contemplate and enjoy it. Then, follow- 
ing the well-beaten way, we pass around an angle in the cliff and 
reach the first pool in this section, which, though 25 feet deep, has 
never, hitherto, had a name. Let us call it " Neptune's Pool," — for 
its water is, in color, like that of the ocean — and move onward 
through the narrow gorge in which we now find ourselves ; cross 
the little foot-bridge to the north side of the stream, which is here 
but a few feet wide, ascend the " Rock Staircase," again face to- 
ward the south, and cross over to a more elevated path on that 
side ; but linger a moment in so doing to catch a down view, which 
from this point is known as " The Labyrinth." On reaching the 
head of this staircase we are in full view of " Long Staircase" and 
'• Cavern Cascade," which are but a few rods distant. On reaching 
the staircase be sure to pass by it, and into the Grotto behind "Cav- 



14 Lake afid Glen Scenery 

ern Cascade," where the scene presented will amply repay the 
short time given to it. On coming out from behind the stream, 
and looking down the Glen, we behold what is known as " Whirl- 
wind Gorge ;" and the " Giant of the Cliff," clearly defined in the 
most prominent angle on the north side, a few rods below where 
we are standing, seems to be acting as the ancient and grim guar- 
dian of this sublime and impressive scene. 

Now we ascend the long staircase, some sixty or seventy 
feet in length, but of easy grade ; and after a rest on rustic seats 
provided for that purpose, are again ready to proceed. We have 
left "Glen Alpha" behind, and are now in the lower part of 

SECTION 2-CLEN OBSCURA. 

This section extends from Cavern Cascade to Glen Cathedral, and 
that portion of Obscura, visible from the head of Long Staircase, 
is called " Profile Gorge," after a remarkable Indian profile in an 
angle of the rock, which was a great curiosity in former years, 
but has since been nearly obliterated, or worn away, by the floods. 
Our path now leads along the intermediate cliff, on the north side 
of the chasm, toward the east a distance of ten rods or more, 
when we rise to the upper cliff by means of a staircase at what 
is called "Point Look Off," which gives the best view of 
" Glen Alpha," from its highest cliffs, on either side. Here, turn- 
ing to the west, we behold the ever-welcome Mountain House — 
John J. Lytle «& Co., present proprietors — and are soon there on 
its broad verandas, for a short season of refreshment and rest. 
Directly opposite of us is the New Mountain House, and the two 
are connected by a beautiful and graceful iron bridge, which 
spans " Profile Gorge," nearly or quite one hundred feet above 
the stream. 

Leaving the Mountain House, we move westward on the north 
side of " Glen Obscura," and soon arrive at Captain Hope's fa- 
mous Art Gallery, which should be visited by all, and as soon as 
reached, instead of being postponed until the return, when the 
circumstances are usually much less favorable, for reasons which 
will appear. The (lallcry contains nearly one hundred splendid 
oil paintings, among which arc the most celebrated works of this 
distinguished artist, including his great painting of the "Army of 
tlie Potomac," and his wonderful picture ot "Rainbow Falls." 



of Central New York. 15 

Leaving this attractive spot, with its rustic summer house, we 
move onward, passing " Point of Rocks," and " Pic-nic Platform," 
along the north side of " Mystic Gorge " (the central part of " (}len 
Obscura") ; and a quarter of a mile above the art gallery, begin 
to descend toward " Sylvan Rapids," and crossing a little bridge 
at their head, we tind ourselves at the east end and on the south 
side of 

SECTION 3-GLEN CATHEDRAL. 

This is the grandest and most imposing section of the entire Glen. 
It is about an eighth of a mile long, several hundred feet wide, 
and live hundred feet deep, nearly three hundred feet of its sides, 
at the highest points, being composed of perpendicular rocky 
walls, cliffs and crags. At about three-fourths of the distance from 
its eastern to its western extremity, we find " The Pool of the 
Nymphs," the largest and most beautiful pool in the whole range 
of the scenery. At its head, the " Central Cascade " is a fine 
feature, and in its vicinity there is a cathedral-like grandeur which 
commends the name of this section to the visitor as having been 
most appropriately chosen. 

The staircase leading out of " Glen Cathedral " is now on the 
north side and nearly in the centre — this side being deemed the 
safest. We mount the high staircase — in two flights — move on- 
ward towards the west till opposite "Central Cascade," when we 
pass into 

SECTION 4-GLEN OF THE POOLS. 

A few rods from the entrance to this S3ction brings ns to anoth- 
er bridge, which we cross to the south side, and on looking west 
" The Matchless Scene" is before us. A walk of ten or fifteen 
rods along that side, by a succession of fine little cascades and 
pools, and on turning a corner just beyond a little staircase, we 
have the lower view of " Triple Cascade and Rainbow Falls," 
which makes a lasting impression on every intelligent beholder. 
Retracing our steps, we ascend the little staircase alluded to, reach 
a higher altitude on a projecting shelf of the south cliff, and we 
are at the point where Capt. Hope painted his study of Rainbow 
Falls. This is, without doubt, the most beautiful and remarkable 
combination view in the Glen, though not equal in grandeur and 



i6 Lake ajid Glen Scenery 

sublimity to the general view in "Glen Cathedral" or the lower 
view at " Entrance Gorge." 

Passing- along the railed pathway and behind the " Rainbow 
Falls," when nearly out from behind the falling spray, on turn- 
ing and looking through it toward the other side of the Gorge— if 
at the right time in the afternoon of a cloudless day — a most beau- 
tiful double rainbow appears. From the first of June until after 
the first of September, it may be seen from behind this watery 
\'eil, in fair weather, several hours a day between one and five 
o'clock P. M. 

Just beyond " Rainbow Falls" we pass " Emerald Pool," whose 
waters are of a beautiful green, and come to a platform staircase, 
ascending the first flight of which, we find seats and pause to rest. 
We are now on the dividing line between the Glen of the Pools and 

SECTION 5-GLEN DIFFICULTY. 

The view, looking west from the i^latform, is called "Shadow 
Gorge." We climb the short staircase at the south end of the 
platform, and move along a railed rock-pathway to another 
bridge only a few rods above, cross to the north side, and march 
onward until a turn in the path brings " Frowning Cliff," and, be- 
yond that, the " Narrow Pass," into full view. We work our way 
through along the north side of " Glen Difficulty," until, near its 
head, another bridge is reached, which we cross to the south side, 
and are soon at " Pluto Falls," a weird and mysterious spot where 
the sun never shines, and where it is always gloomy, even at mid- 
day. Surmounting a rock stairway, by means of an iron rail, we 
suddenly find ourselves safely out of " Glen Difficulty " and in 

SECTION 6-GLEN ARCADIA. 

In its rock-ci.ttings and carvings, showing the curious workings 
of water through thousands of years, this section is the most 
wonderful of all. The picture, from the point where we now are, 
is called the "Artist's Dream," and, with "Arcadian Fall" in the 
distance, is rightly named. Moving along the south side, with 
many a turn and angle, we reach the next and last staircase of 
the Glen, which takes us to the north bank, and a few rods further 
up we find a platform bridge, on which to rest, thrown across the 



of Central New York. i? 

narrow chasm directly over -Arcadian Fall." A down view 
from here presents the fine picture called " Elfin Gorge." 

We are now, as the route runs, two milQS or more from the en- 
trance. There is a mile and a half or two miles of scenery still 
beyond— some of it very beautiful and picturesque ; but no car- 
riage roads and no carriages by which we may return, and the 
roirte is rough and tiresome. "We have passed through all the 
principal gorges, and there is but one cascade, " Omega Fall "— 
farther west, and that is nearly a mile and a half away. To reach 
it we must pass through Sections 7, 8 and 9. Glens Facility, 
Horicon, Elysium, and to the entrance of Omega. Those who 
prefer to go further can do so ; and those who do not will turn 
back and descend into "Glen Arcadia;" and at the foot of the stair- 
case, on looking east, we behold the most bewitching of pictures, 
especially near sunset, in this or any other part of the world. It 
is called the " Fairies' Home," and should be embraced in every 
stereoscopic collection. 

We now move downward from "Glen Arcadia" into "Gien 
Difficulty," where the first down view, a very fine one, is called 
" Spiral Gorge,"— and through " Glen Difficulty" until the platform 
staircase is again reached near "Rainbow Falls." The down view 
from here is called "Giant's Gorge," and, if the rainbow is on the 
fall, the prismatic colors can be seen from this platform, running 
horizontally across the falling spray. 

We move downward again, into the beautiful and ever in- 
teresting "Glen of the Pools," pass behind the veil, gaze on the 
rainbow, if it is there, and are soon again at the head of " Glen 
Cathedral." The down view from this spot is called " Mammoth 
Gorge," it being the largest in the Glen. Moving downward still, 
we reach the level of the Cathedral, and the bridge at its lower 
end. From this bridge the down view into " Glen Obscura," 
which thus far has no staircases nor pathways, is called " Whirl- 
pool Gorge." Taking the return pathway, we are soon at the 
Art Gallery and Mountain House. Of course we cross, or at least 
go to the centre of the Iron Bridge, and the down view from that 
romantic structure is called " Canyon Gorge." 

After refreshments at the Mountain House, instead of passmg 
down through "Glen Alpha." (or crossing over and going down by 
the south-side road for want of time), we turn our faces to the north 



j8 Lake and GIe?i Scenery 

take the pathway to Glenwood Cemetery, passing the beautiful 
Magee Monument grounds, and finally reach the little " Observa- 
tory Building," which iridicates the spot from which the finest view 
can be obtained. This enchanting scene has already commanded 
the homage of the most gifted pens in our country. We shall at- 
tempt no description, preferring not to mar its manifold beauties 
and splendors by seeking to anticipate them. All must see, ad- 
mire and appreciate it for themselves. After feasting our eyes on 
the peerless landscape till time — not weariness of vision — bids us 
depart, we cast a last, lingering, half regretful, farewell look be- 
hind, and descending return to our hotels, or homes, as the case 
may be, feeling that enough has been accomplished and seen for 
one day, and that nature has indeed been lavish of her charms 
amid the scenes and scenery through wjiiich we have passed since 
commencing the exploration of Watkifis Glen. 

THE WATKINS HOTELS. 

The first thing to be con,sidered by the tourist on arriving at 
Watkins — or it may be before — is what hotel shall be chosen. — 
As a sufficient answer to this important cjuestion, we introduce the 
following from an unprejudiced source — the Elinira Daily Ad- 
vertiser : , 

" In one respect, the Watkins Glen has met with genuine pro- 
gress. We refer to its Hotel accommodations. In addition to the 
old established down town houses and the Glen Mountain House, 
w^hich partakes more of the character of a Restaurant and a Sa- 
loon, there are three of these " hostleries" which have been built 
and opened with special reference to the Glen as a Summer Re- 
sort. 

" Nearest to the Glen is the Arlington House, owned and kept 
by Mr. A. N. Ackley, an old resident of Watkins. This Hotel is 
located well up on the side of the hill, high enough for all practi- 
cal purposes, and made easy of access by wide and pleasant stair- 
ways. From its spacious piazzas beautiful views of the valley and 
village are obtained, while gentle breezes waft the perfume of pure 
sweet air constantly around you. 

" The Lake View House, which was originally built for a Sani- 
tarium, is located farther north and farther up the hill overlooking the 
lake. It is a fine house, first-class in character and appointments, 
and attracts a good share of the patronage which is drawn by the 
Glen. 



of Central New York. ig 

"The Glen Pnrk Hotel, however, seems to be the fie plus tillra 
of the fashionable spirit which congregates around the Glen. This 
hotel was built and is owned by Col. Eli C. Frost, and is under 
the management of Mr. I. W. Knapp, formerly of the Rutherford 
Park Hotel, New York. The surroundings of the house are 
charming to the last degree. The spacious grounds are laid out 
in walks and filled with beautiful flowers and shrubs, in all of 
which is seen evidence of the skillful professional hand of the pro- 
prietor. Within the house, facing these grounds, are spacious and 
handsomely furnished and carpeted parlors, which remind one of 
an entrance to the fashionable hotels of Niagara or Saratoga. — 
The whole house, which is very commodious, is fitted up in har- 
mony with the elegance which greets the eye on entering. It is 
creditable in every respect both to the proprietor and the village 
in wdiich it is located, and supplies fully the one want which Wat- 
kins has always needed — a hotel which w^ould be attractive to the 
summer wanderer in search of health, pleasure and rest. We had 
heard of it, and that it was a first-class house, but until we saw it 
our idea of it was that it was simply a village tavern. We certify 
now that it is a hotel worthy of even a more pretentious watering 
place than Watkins. The enterprise and confidence which induced 
the venture are well worthy of a large return. 

"With these hotels Watkins is now in trim to receive and to ad- 
equately take ca^e of a host of people. Those who want style can 
get it at the Lake View and Glen Park. Those who want comfort 
and the more moderate conveniences will find ample room and 
verge enough at the other hotels — (Fall Brook and Jefferson 
Houses.) For a run out and a stay of one day or a week, we can 
imagine no more desirable place than Watkins. The attractions 
are unsurpass3d, and the accommodations are suited to every 
taste. 

The foregoing is a fair and just view to take of the Watkins 
Hotels. As one well acquainted with the locality — having first 
brought the Glen into public notice as a Summer Resort in 1863, 
and acted as its Manager for seven years thereafter — the writer 
feels bound to say that the best and only first-class Jiotel accommo- 
dations are to be found outside of the Glen, and in accordance with 
the observations contained in the above article. 

Fgr particulars in reference to Stereoscopic Views, Fancy Ar- 
ticles, &c., in Watkins, see advertisement of Taber's Glen Bazar. 



20 Lake and Gicn Scenery 

HAVANA GLEN. 

Havana Glen is located near the People's College Building, (now 
known as the Cook Academy,) in the eastern part of the village 
of Havana, one mile east of the Northern Central Depot, and 
three and a half miles from Watkins Glen. Its course is nearly 
cast and west, the ascent being towards the cast, as it is on that 
side of the valley. It differs very materially from the Watkins 
Glen in the details of its scenery, and yet, in generalities, is almost 
a counterpart of its scenic sister on the west side of Seneca valley. 

In approaching it you pass through a vast and beautiful amphi- 
theatre of thirty or forty acres, filled with groves and cozy pic-nic 
grounds ; and many of the gorges and cascades arc fully equal to 
— and several of them superior— to the finest found in Watkins 
Glen. It is not so long as Watkins Glen ; but its views are full of 
startling and absorbing interest, and its pools, instead of being 
oval or round like those at W^atkins, are as sc^uare as if hewn by 
human agency, out of the stratified rock. Its forests, foliage and 
general Flora, including the mosses, lichens and ferns, are much 
like those of Watkins Glen — they could not well be superior— and 
the universal sentiment of tourists is, that visitors should by all 
means see and explore both. 

Some of the principal scenes in the Havana Glen are known as 
" Portal Cascade," " Eagle Cliff Falls," " The Council Chamber," 
" Curtain Cascade," " Jacob's Ladder," "The Bridal Veil," " Her- 
mit's Gorge," " The Indian Oven," " The Mountain Tunnel," 
" Whispering Falls," " Chaos Gorge," " Echo Falls." " Fairies' 
Cascade," " Summit Falls." &c. 

While all of these views, from "Portal Cascade" to "Summit 
Falls," are replete with beauty and interest, " Eagle Cliff Falls," 
*' The Council Chamber," " Curtain Cascade," " Jacob's Ladder," 
" The Bridal Veil" and " The Mountain Tunnel," are unrivalled 
by those connected with any other locality in the State,^ and are 
rapturously and enthsiastically admired. We might publish many 
highly nattering and eulogistic notices of this Glen, from the best 
writers and most popular newspapers and magazines in the Union, 
— including Appleton's Journal and Scribncrs Monthly — both of 
which have published illustrated articles on its scenery ; but our 
limits will not permit and we forbear — giving only a single one 



of Central New York. 21 

below. It is beautifully illustrated and described in the new and 
truly magnificent work now in process of publication, entitled 
" Picturesque America," and is fully classed among the popular 
Summer Resorts of the country: 

[From Scribncr's Mag;iz"ne for Juno, 1872.] 

" From the very beginning Havana Glen impresses the visitor 
as having a character of its own. The stream is larger than that 
of Watkins Glen. The rock is less shaly, and it has a strongly 
marked system of rectangular points dividing the cliffs into square 
towers and butti-esses. When a portion of the cliff falls, it does 
not leave a jagged face as in Watkins Glen ; but a mural surface 
as smooth and even as a fortress wall, giving the sides of canons 
the appearance of great diversity and grand simplicity. The 
eroding current follows the lines of division, zigzaging at right an- 
gles rather than curving after the fashion of ordinary streams. — 
At times, as in the " Council Chamber," it cuts out perfect halls, 
with square corners and perpendicular sides, as unlike anything 
in Watkins Glen as can be imagined. The walls are lower than 
in Watkins, but they seem higher because of their clean cut faces. 
In Watkins there is a presistent sameness in diversity — a monotony 
of fantastic outlines. Havana has a statelier, more majestic look. 
W^atkins confuses while it amazes, bewildering by its multitude of 
details, infinitely various yet constantly similar. Havana has less 
variety and greater diversity — its plan seeming to be to present no 
two scenes at all alike. At times the cliff gives place to wooded 
escarpments ; vegetation creeps down into the Gorge and throws 
a net-work of beauty and grace — truly Glen like — between two 
spaces of precipitous rock. The falls are fewer but in the main 
more massive, and the pools are square cornered instead of oval. 
In short, the two Glens are not rivals, but compliments, and the 
sight of one heightens rather than lessens the enjoyment of the 
other." 

There are refreshment houses at and near the entrance of the 
Havana Glen, and two good hotels in the village — the Montour 
House, which is in size and all things else a first-class house, and 
the Webster House, which is smaller, but very attractive and nice- 
ly conducted. The extension of the Watkins and Havana Street 
Railway, from the former village to the Havana Glen, is in con- 
templation, and when completed the number of visitors will be 
largely increased, as its scenic attractions are already well known 
and its popularity well established. 

Carriages will convey visitors to and from the depot and pub- 
lic houses, and between the two Glens, until the railway is com- 



22 Lake and Glen Scenery 

pleted, at moderate rates ; and a busy future is anticipated at the 
two Glens and the respective villages from which they take their 
names. 

It should be stated that the Glens at the head of Seneca Lake, 
known as the Watkins and Havana Glens, do not, by any means, 
embrace all the glen scenery of those villages and their surround- 
ings. There is a beautiful unopened and undeveloped Glen im- 
mediately west of the village of Ha^'ana, called " Glen Montour," 
after the town in which Havana is located ; the main fall of which 
is visible even to railway travelers, and a perpetual charm to the 
village. It may not be opened, pathwayed, and staircased un- 
til next year ; but it has its claims and they will soon be respected. 
There is an undeveloped Glen immediately east of Watkins, 
known as "Glen Excelsior," so named by the pioneer of Watkins 
Glen; (owned, in part, by the proprietor of the Havana Glen, M. 
M. Cass, Esq., of Watkins), the main fall of which, called " Em- 
pire Fall," half a mile east of Seneca Lake, measures two hun- 
dred and eighty feet in height, its angle being about seventy de- 
grees. It is one of the most beautiful cascades in the Central lake 
region, when in full play, and w-ell worth a special visit. The 
Hector Falls Glen, some three miles north of Watkins, the main 
view of which is the fall alluded to heretofore, has many 
scenes well worth exploration. And there is still another, further 
down the Lake on the same side, before reaching North Hector 
Point, called " Peach Orchard Glen," not yet opened, but bound in 
the near future, to come out of its native seclusion and add its. ro- 
mance to the general fund of the Central New^ York Lake and 
Glen Scenery. 

THE EXPLORATION. 

Visitors reach the Havana Glen, at present, both from Havana 
and Watkins by carriages, a lull supply of which will be found on 
hire, at reasonable rates, in both villages. 

On arriving at the " Glen Grove House," which is located in the 
" Grand Entrance Amphitheatre," (comprising over 30 acres near 
the opening gorge of the Glen) the carriages are left behind, and 
the exploration begins. Moving toward the east, \vc soon enter 
the lower gorge, and come in sight of " Portal Cascade," which, 
though not a high fall, is, especially in times of high water, a fea- 



of Central New York. 2j 

\ ture of much interest. We now ascend a stairway leading up the 
• north cliff, turn to the east again at its head, and a few steps bring 
us to the " Art Gallery," where Gates's celebrated Stereoscopic and 
Photographic views of the Havana, Watkins and Ithaca Glens, 
and a large variety of fancy articles, curiosities, &c., are for sale. 
Leaving this cozy little spot, we pass on a few rods, turn abruptly 
to the north, make a short detour around " Landslide Gap," and 
find ourselves going south on the east side of it ; but only a short 
distance, when we turn around the cliff to the east and " Crystal 
Rapids " and " Eagle Cliff Fall," come into view. The fall, how- 
erver, is some distance ahead, and in order to reach it we cross a 
bridge at this point (unless the water is very low in which case we 
can cross the stream further up), take the south side pathway, and 
soon reach the fall, which is the highest — about 60 feet — and one 
of the finest in the Glen. It takes its name from the eagles that in 
former years nested at this point, high up in the northern cliff 
where an old nest is still to be seen. 

We climb the Eagle Fall Staircase — the highest single one con- 
nected with the Scenery, and at its summit find ourselves in that 
strange and unaccountable wonder of nature, known as " The 
Council Chamber." This remarkable place is as square cut as if 
hewn out of the rock by human hands, and has no counterpart or 
rival in all the Glen Scenery of Central New York. It is nearly 
100 feet in length, about 25 feet wide two-thirds of that distance, 
and less than one-half as wide at the south end, or "Corner Cham- 
ber," its form being like the following diagram : 

EAST. 






WKST. 



The side, and south-end walls, are sufficiently high to give the 
Chamber a most impressive appearance, and the stream falls in- 
to the narrow section at the south-east corner, flows through to the 



24 Dike and Glen Scenery 

north end, and, in falling to the depths below, forms " Eagle Cliff 
Fall." We leave the chamber by a staircase leading out of it to 
the east, and proceed to the next point of special interest, " Cur- 
tain Cascade," which is conceded by all artists to be the most 
beautiful one in all the Glen Scenery of the State. It is located 
about thirty rods east of the "Council Chamber," and can be 
seen to much more advantage by leaving the direct pathway and 
descending to the level of the stream in front of it. 

After lingering as long as we wish below "Curtain Cascade," 
we return to the main path, move onward, cross a bridge, directly 
over the upper portion of the cascade, to the south side, turn to 
the left and soon mount a staircase leading to " Hermit's Gorge." 
Following along the pathway, we com.e to another, but shorter, 
staircase, which lands us on a bridge. Crossing over to the north 
side, we descend another staircase and are now at the head of 
"Hermit's Gorge" and at the foot of "Jacob's Ladder." This is 
a remarkable spot, and the stream, beyond where we stand, is en- 
tirely hidden from view, except where it rushes out of a narrow 
cut in the rock and falls into the pool below. "Jacob's Ladder " 
is so called because of its extreme length. It is composed of two 
long staircases, each of which is nearly fifty feet in length. One 
crosses the gorge toward the south, reaches a landing on the face 
of the south cliff, and from there the other crosses back to the 
north cliff, and thus enables explorers to proceed on their jour- 
ney. The view from the upper section of this staircase is full of 
the beautiful and romantic — the " Bridal Veil " being on the right 
hand as we ascend, and the " Hermit's Gorge " on the left. 

On reaching the top of "Jacob's Ladder," we turn to the east 
once more, descend a short staircase, and a couple of rods ahead 
ascend another, turn to the north, go up still another, and rest at 
the " Pilgrim's Grotto." Then forward again, turn to the right, 
above the " Bridal Veil," cross a bridge, and, winding around and 
along the cliffs, we come to the " Mountain Tunnel," a natural 
passage through the rock, staircased at both ends. The " Indian 
Oven" is down in the "Cavern Gorge," nearly north of the en- 
trance to the tunnel, and may be reached after passing through it. 
A short distance east of the tunnel is seen "Whispering Falls," 
which we reach by a rock pathway along the south side, and en- 



of Central New York. 25 

ter " Chaos Gorge," so called from the confused and very unusual 
condition in which the stratified rock is found. 

Turning to the right, we soon after cross over near " Echo 
Falls," where there is a hollow and perpetual echo, and here we 
turn to the east again, pass forward about a quarter of a mile, 
and come to " Faries' Cascade," climb the rock steps on its north 
side, and are in " Summit Gorge," a beautiful scene ; and shortly 
after passing through it, we come to " Summit Falls," the last of 
note in the Glen. 

Instead of wending our way back down through the gorges, we 
take a pathway leading along the north side of the Glen, near the 
skirting woodland, and in due time arrive at the " Mountain Cliff 
House," located nearly north oiLthe starting place, where refresh- 
mnnts are furnished, and a halt, of a few minutes at least, is gen- 
erally made; for all are more or less weary. At this House, 
there are swings, croquet grounds, a fountain in full play, and the 
location is a very pleasant one. 

On leaving the " Mountain Cliff House," we take a beautifully 
shaded pathway leading toward the south, and in a few minutes 
are back at the "Art Gallery," and within a short distance of 
the "Glen Grove House," and our waiting carriages — having 
rambled, going and returning, more than two and a half miles, 
and overcome in the ascent nearly or quite seven hundred feet. 

At the head of "Jacob's Ladder," there is an outlet-pathway 
leading back to the " Mountain CHff House," for the acommoda- 
tion of such visitors as do not wish to explore the entire upper 
part of the Glen, and many — perhaps a majority — return by that 
route. 

The stereoscopic and photographic views sold at the " Havana 
Glen Art Gallery," are finished in the very highest style of the 
Art, and have been taken with great care. All persons can rely 
on securing better pictures of the Havana, Watkins and Ithaca 
Glens, at this Gallery, than at any other place in Havana, as no 
imperfect or inferior pictures are allowed to be placed on sale. 

THE ITHACA GLENS. 

It is said that within ten miles of the central portion of Ithaca 
there are one hundred and fifty waterfalls. It has been but re- 



26 Lake and Glen Scenery 

cently that these waterfalls and their rocky ravines, with all their 
variet)' of wild, grand and beautiful scener}^ have been brought 
prominently before the public. The principal Glen in the imme- 
diate vicinity of the village is known as 

ITHACA GORGE, 

In which is found the largest number of remarkable cascades 
(within the same distance) in the State. The stream, which is 
called Fall Creek, falls four hundred feet or more in less than a 
mile of its descent from the east to the waters of the lake. It is 
located along the north bounds of the Cornell University grounds, 
and has been made safely and easily accessible by recent im- 
provements, at the cost of much money and labor. Its proximity 
to the village will always give it a larger number of visitors than 
any other Glen in that vicinity ; but all who have the time to do so 
should visit Lick Brook, Buttermilk Creek, Cascadilla, &c., as they 
all posses different scenic charms, and great natural beauties. 
Like the Glens at Watkins and Havana, they can not be describ- 
ed, but must be seen by those who would form any adequate idea 
of their diversified scenery. A whole week may be profitably and 
pleasantly spent by the tourist among these Glens, at the Univer- 
sity buildings, and visiting the more distant attractions at Tau- 
ghannock and Enfield, The former is spelled and pronounced in 
several different ways ; but we accept the foregoing, as it is the 
one adopted by the author of the Guide Book sold on the spot. 

TAUGHANNOCK, 

Is the grandest, deepest, and widest old gorge to be found in the 
Glen scenery of the State, and as sublime as it is grand. Its main 
fall has long been noted for its great height and singularity. It is 
in no sense a cascade, but one unbroken fall of two hundred and 
fifteen feet in height, and from thirty to forty wide, descending 
into the great gorge alluded to, in a thin sheet, its plunge chang- 
ing it into a soft and wavy curtain of spray, resembling lace work ; 
or, when the stream is high, into a sheet of silver suspended 
betvveen heaven and earth. Its great beauty, in fact, consists 
in its singularity — there being nothing else like it in the known 
world — and in its massive rock-work surroundings. There is a 



of Central New York. 2y 

ravine with several cascades above it, extending half a mile or 
more to the west, and the immense gorge below it contracts into 
ravine proportions, with delightful views, as it approaches the 
west shore of the lake — some seven miles north of Ithaca. The 
cliffs on each side of the great gorge, below the fall, are nearly or 
quite four hundred feet high — one hundred higher than those of 
Glen Cathedral in Watkins Glen, and nearly as high as its cliffs 
and steep bank combined. It is nearly or quite an eight of a mile 
wide, and there is a marked general similarity between these two 
specimens of Glen scenery, both of which, below the falls at their 
heads, sweep out into amphitheatres, with their towering battle- 
ments far above, their watery mirrors below, and a thousand name- 
less features of interest, all of which combined renders them places 
of unequalled enchantment at the respective localities where they 
have been wrought out by the power of Omnipotence, and the tire- 
less hand of Time. 

ENFIELD GLEN AND FALLS, 

An hour's ride (by carriage) south-west of Taughannock, should 
by all means be visited, if it takes a whole day ; as a great varie- 
ty of beautiful scenery, in addition to the main Fall, awaits the 
visitor. This Glen is very unlike any other at or near the head of 
Cayuga Lake, and has an individuality peculiarly its own. It ap- 
proaches nearer in its characteristics to Havana Glen than any 
other in Central New York, but descends toward the east instead 
of the west; and the time and money required to visit it is well 
invested, whether the start be taken from Ithaca, or Taughannock, 
which lies a mile or two south-east of Trumansburg. 

The hotel accommodations at these four points are all that could 
be reasonably anticipated or desired. The Ithaca Hotel and Clin- 
ton House, in that village, are equal to any in this Glen and Lake 
region ; and the Taughannock House, located on the north side of 
the mammoth gorge, above referred to, overlooking the surround- 
ing scene, and giving a fine view of the great fall, is a most inter- 
esting spot, and a welcome place of rest and recreation to the weary 
explorer. At the head of Enfield Glen, a hotel will be found where 
visitors will meet with good attention ; and this is the proper place 
to start from, on foot, to view the scenery, after which vistors re- 
turn to the hotel — for unlike all other Glens, of which mention has 



28 Lake and Glen Scenery, 

been made, the scenery of Enfield has to be reached from above, 
as the ravine cannot be entered from below without great diffi- 
cult}% on account of the lay of the land and the absence of roads. 

In conclusion, it may be said that the people of Ithaca and vi- 
cinity, as well as those of Watkins and Havana, are now alive to 
the great importance to them, and their prosperity, of the fine and 
natural scenery with which nature has endowed their respective 
localities, and we doubt not that they will go forward in the work 
so well begun, and make all places of interest and scenic merit 
accessible to the public. And not only should they do this, but 
guard them carefully from being despoiled of their native charms 
by the vandal enroachments of man. Just in proportion as their 
natural wonders of rock, waterfall and forest are shorn of the let- 
ter, just in that proportion they will be ruined as summer resorts 
and fall into disrepute ; and if there is no other way to prevent such 
sacrilege as has already been committed on portions of some one 
or more of them, the power of the State should be invoked for 
their preservation in all their primeval wildness, weirdness, beauty 
and grandeur, as they are, in some sense, a common heritage of 
the people for all coming time. The very name " Glen " is sug- 
gestive of romance and romantic scenery ; and yet many of the 
Glens of Scotland and Switzerland — even those of historic re- 
nown — have been desecrated by the woodman's axe, until they 
have lost nearly all the attractiveness and charms they once pos- 
sessed. The Glens of Central New York are worthy of a better 
fate ; and we live in an enlightened age, when cultivated minds 
can appreciate them, as picturesque gems, far beyond their natu- 
ral value for ordinary uses. Let them, therefore, be- protected, 
and their natural beauties and wonders, among which the nymphs, 
graces and fairies delight to dwell, be forever perpetuated, as 
as are to be those of the enchanted valleys of the Yosemite and 
Yellow Stone, by the Nation, and, as in all probability, the Adi- 
rondack wilderness of Northern New York is to be by the State. 



Advertisements. 



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^o Advertisements. 

CHARLES E. M. TABER'S 

ilea iaiar aai Oiflesllj lapilim: 

(Situated at the Entrance of Watkins Glen\ 

WATKINS, N. Y. 



Hero can always be found a full selection of Indian. Swiss, French, Eng- 
lish and other Fancy Goods, consisting of Microscopic Views, Fancy Baskets, 
Feather Fans. Spar and Japanese Jewelry, Canes. Birch Bark Canoes, Bows 
and Arrows, Necklaces, Shells, Indian Nut Work, Agates, Petrifactions, &c. 

Spar and Rock. Ornaments of every conceivable pattern. 

Imperial Stereoscopic Views, at the very lowest 

rates and of every description and size* 

All kinds of Indian £telics. 

Ice Cream Parlors and Croquet Grounds 

ATTACUED TO THE BAZAR. 

Street Cars pass the Bazar, to and from the Depot, every fifteen minutes. 

Guide Books a specialty. 

«3=.The greatest novelty of the Season, the " Glen Fan." 




WATKINS. N. Y. 



Headquarters of Photographic ^ Stereoscopic G-len Scenery 

OF CENTRAL NEW YORK. 



Plain or Colored, in Sets, embracing an immense number of Views in the 
WATKINS, HAVANA and ITHACA GLENS, in Summer and Winter, 
forming perfect Panoramas of their entire length. The finest collection of 
Glen Scenery in the United States. 



Location in Watkins— Second National Bank Buildinsr. 
Sales-Room, First Floor. Sales Room in Havana, at Havana 
Glen. 

G. F. GATES. 



Advertisements. 



31 



GLEN PARK HOTEL, 

A_t Watkins, N. Y"., 

Is a new and elegantly-furnished Hotel, and can accommodate twice the 
number of guests of any other Hotel in Watkins or vicinity, with large and 
well-ventilated rooms, in suits or single; is lighted throughout with coal 
gas, is surrounded with highly CULTIVATED GROUNDS, ^yith croquet 
lawns, and is located on the main avenue, and within three minutes' walk 
of the lower or main entrance of the great Glen, which was visited last year 
by upwards of sixty thousand people. Visitors entering the Glen_ at this 
point, will have the very best opportunity of viewing it in its various at- 
tractions and return, without severe fatigue. 





THE GLEN PARK HOTEL 

Can be reached by a Free Omnibus and the street horse cars, running to and 
from the railroad and steamboat depots, and by carriages. It is within fif- 
teen minutes' ride of the wonderful Magnetic Springs, now effecting extra- 
ordinary cures. 

The Hotel is first-class in all its appointments, and will be under the 
management of Mr. I. W. Knapp, formerly of New York City, and recently 
proprietor of Rutherford Park Hotel. 

Address for circulars and information, 

I. W. KNAPP, Manager. 
E. C. FROST, Proprietor. 



32. Advertisements. 

SENECA LAKE 



^( 



18 7 3. 



SUMMER ARRANGEMENT. 



Schuyler and Onondaga. 

♦-♦ 

Six Passages Daily during tlie Pleasure Season, 

AND 

FOUR PmiGES DAILY DURING THE REMAINDER OF TOE YEAR, 

BETWEEN 
COXNECTIN'G WITH 

NEW YORK CENTRAL R. R. AND WITH 
THE ERIE AND NORTHERN CEN- 
TRAL RAILWAYS, 

At W^atkiiis and Geneva. 



To Excnrsionists:— By this new arransrement parties are enabled to 
secure several hours in the great GLEN AT WATKINS, by taking morning 
boat at (Jeneva and returning on evening boat, leaving Watkins. All per- 
sons will bo taken at Excursion Kates— lull fare one way— who desire to pass 
over the Lake, and return the same day. 



D. P. DEY, Sup't 




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